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How to fold and sew a mitered corner on a double fold hem

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how to sew a mitered corner on a double fold hem

Sewing corners on hems can be a bit tricky, if you simply fold the seam allowance on top of each other it creates a bulky corner that can be difficult to sew. By sewing a mitered corner you will reduce bulk and get a better end result.

This folded mitered corner is great for narrow seam allowances on double fold hems, I use this technique in Tie Dress and The Tsuno Tie Bag.

The end result adds a nice touch to your handmade garment, but there is a little gap where the seam allowances meet at the corner. However on seams up to about 1 cm  / 3/8" you won't really notice this small gap.

If you are making a project with a wider seam allowance, you might want to opt for a sewn mitered corner, where you don't have a gap in the end result.

It will take a bit of practice, but once you get the hang of it you'll be glad you've added this techique to your sewing skills. If you are unsure of how it all comes together, you can also use a piece of paper to practice this technique.

You'll need:

  • Steam iron
  • Scissors
  • Fabric
  • Sewing machine
  • Ruler
  • Set triangle
  • Fabric pen, tailors chalk or a pencil

How to fold a mitered corner on a double fold hem

For the tutorial I've marked the seam allowance on fabric with a fabric marker. Accuracy is key, so you can do the same, or simply fold and measure the fabric as you go.

sew a mitered corner on a double fold hem

Working on the wrong side of the fabric. First fold and press the double hem towards the wrong side of the fabric to create fold lines.

First one seam.

sew a mitered corner on a double fold hem

sew a mitered corner on a double fold hem

Then fold and press the other seam allowance.

sew a mitered corner on a double fold hem

fold a mitered corner on a double fold hem.

fold a mitered corner on a double fold hem.

Both seams are now folded and pressed.

a mitered hem on a napkin or garment

When you unfold the hem you can see the fold lines, you will use those lines as a guide to create the mitered corner. 

sew a mitered corner on a double fold hem

Use a ruler to mark the tip as shown in the photo, then cut off the corner.

Now fold over the cut edge of your seam allowance at the inter section of the seam allowance. I'm using a set triangle to draw a line, but I mostly eye ball this.

sew a mitered corner on a double fold hem

sew a mitered corner on a double fold hem

Fold the cut edge towards the wrong side of the fabric and iron just the fold edge.

sew a mitered corner on a double fold hem

fold a mitered corner on a double fold hem.

Now you are ready to refold your double fold hem. First fold one side of the seam allowance.

sew a mitered corner on a double fold hem

fold a mitered corner on a double fold hem.

Now re-fold the other side of the seam allowance.

sew a mitered double fold hem on a napkin

sew a mitered corner on a napkin

After folding you can edge sew the double fold hem and the corner.

sew a napkin with a double fold hem

As you can see there's still a small gap but on a seam up to a bout 1 cm / 3/8"you won't really notice this.

fold a mitered corner on a double fold hem.

Or check out the video

Have you used this technique before? Will you be using it in the future? Let me know in the comments!

Try these mitered corners in a small reusable gift wrap

go ahead and try your mitered corner in a project! Grab a free copy of the smallest Tsuno Tie Bag and start sewing up your scraps and learn new use new techniques like mitered corners and French seams

free bento bag sewing pattern

PS: Doing a wider double fold hem and want to do a mitered corner check out another method here.